Test-driving a used car: the points to check

A good test drive lasts at least 20 to 30 minutes, starts with a cold engine and takes in town, open road and, if possible, a dual carriageway. It is used to check three things: that the car matches the listing, that no symptom of a fault appears, and that the model's known weak points are in good condition. Prepare it by reading the model's guide: the checklist in our guides tells you what to test first.

What should you prepare before the appointment?

• Read the guide to the model and its engine, especially the faults and the checklist. For example: on the Toyota Aygo II, the clutch is the most frequently cited weak point; on the Nissan Qashqai II 1.2 DIG-T, it is oil consumption and the timing chain.
• Ask for the engine not to be started before you arrive. An engine that is already warm hides start-up noises, smoke and some timing-chain or gearbox faults.
• Come in daylight, in dry weather, with a torch to look under the car.
• Ask to see the documents first: registration certificate, roadworthiness test, invoices, HistoVec report. There is no point test-driving a car whose papers do not add up (see the documents to demand).
• The car must be insured to be driven: ask the seller before you get behind the wheel.

What should you check while stationary, before driving?

1. A walk around the car: gaps between body panels, differences in paint shade, paint marks on the seals, rust under the sills and the rear axle. Our guide to the Dacia Spring, for example, reports rust on the rear axle reinforcements and on the wheels of some production runs.
2. The tyres: same brand on an axle, even wear. Uneven wear across the tread points to an alignment problem.
3. Under the bonnet, engine cold: oil level and appearance, coolant level, signs of leaks. On the 0.9 TCe, our guide reports a thermostat leak that can damage the head gasket if it goes unnoticed.
4. The start-up: all the warning lights must come on and then go out. Listen to the first few seconds: a rattle from cold can come from a timing chain (a point cited for the 1.2 TCe).
5. The equipment: windows, mirrors, air conditioning, screen, camera, Bluetooth. Electronic bugs come up often in our guides to recent models, such as the Renault Captur II.

What should you test on the road?

• The engine: clean pick-up, no flat spot or jerk, no smoke under acceleration. The 1.5 TSI of the early years could hesitate from cold, a fault fixed by a software update.
• The clutch (manual gearbox): a hill start, then firm acceleration in 3rd gear at low revs. The revs must not rise without the car accelerating (slipping), and there must be no judder.
• The gearbox: gear changes without crunching, including reverse.
• The brakes: firm braking in a straight line, without the car pulling to one side or the pedal vibrating.
• Steering and suspension: no dull knocks over speed bumps, no play in the steering wheel, a car that runs straight.
• A dual carriageway, if possible: vibrations, wind noise, stability, cruise control.